Yangshuo climbing guides and routes
YSMR is an excellent base for all those budding climbers wanting to explore the crags in the area. We are located right in the heart of the peaks with Tongmen Hill only a stones throw away and Moon Hill a 30 minute bike ride through the local villages and rice fields. We can also organize all of your climbing trips with trusted schools in Yangsdhuo, just inquire at reception upon arrival.
Chinaclimb is the first and leading rock climbing guiding company in China. Formed back in 2001 by two Australian mates and one of China's top climbers, Chinaclimb is now staffed by a multi-national team who are passionate about adventure.
Karst Café was one of the pioneers of rock climbing in Yangshuo, and has introduced more than 300 groups to the stunning climbing opportunities offered in Yangsdhuo county. The club was established in 1999 and provides a wide range of climbing trips, offering professional climbing services and guides. Their English and Chinese speaking guides cater to all levels so whether you are an old hand or just want to try your hand, Karst Café can assist.
A new outfit in town run by former guides from China Climb is Terra Tribes, as well as the Red Rock Climbing Bar
The Changing Face of Yangshuo Climbing
By Eben Farnworth
Rock climbing as a sport in china started in 1992 when a US climber called Todd Skinner did one of his early Asia tours. Over the next 15 years Yangshuo took centre stage in Chinas small fringe sport climbing seen. Many routes were bolted and a great number of climbing athletes from around the world visited Yangshuo to carve their name in the steep Karst towers which makeup this iconic landscape. During this time the climbing here became more and more well known through the climbing communities of the world as climbing article after climbing article appeared with photos of Moon hill, Twin gates, Banyan tree crag and many others.
In 2008 the first international climbing event was held, the Black Dimond North Face Climbing Festival. Visiting athletes, Cedar Wright and James Pearson attended and over 300 people took part in this, not just first for Yangshuo, but first for China International Climbing festival. The event its self was a great success. However its repercussions went unpredicted by all and only became apparent in the months and years following this first event. Access problems had always been hanging around in the background of Yangshuo climbing with many crags suffering periodic access problems. These were small and were largely ignored by the community. After the first festival many local people started to believe that there is much money to be made from rock climbing. Ownership was claimed over many of the crags, bolts on some crags were chopped after climbers did not pay for access and even disputes between villages over who controls access rights to different crags started. Climbers started an access fund and had many meetings with local people all without much success. The next few years access was difficult at many crags but luckily climbers still refused to pay for climbing. They just kept bolting new routes on new cliffs in the area; there is so much rock in Yangshuo and the people who were creating access problems were not in communication with each other so after a short time there was lots of new routes to climb on new crags and all crags with access problems were left alone. Two more years passed and nearly all the access issues disappeared as no one was making money charging for crag access, the access fund had also gone. This is good for climbing in China as a whole, in China nothing is free, people put walls and gates around everything they can and sell gate tickets and this very nearly happened with climbing too.
From 2010 on, the development of climbing in China has shifted to exploring more and more new areas with climbing routes of all types being developed in all directions. Now China has a national climbing team, around 20 international competitions a year with cash prizes and many climbing festivals and events all over the country. The new generation of Yangshuo climbers are really pushing the grades and training harder than the small climbing community that grew up here in the beginning. Currently Yangshuo has only one internationally recognised 9a route (5.14d) and two Yangshuo climbers: Abon and Dawei who are competing to see who will be the first Chinese climber to complete this line. Meanwhile there are two girls (Junbao and Xiaoting) competing to see who will be the first Chinese girl to climb 5.14a (8b+) all taking place here in Yangshuo, the home of Chinese rock climbing and still at the cutting edge of climbing in Asia.
To arrange climbing with Eben, you can email him here.